The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest

The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest

Anatoli Boukreev

Language: English

Pages: 416

ISBN: 0312206372

Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub


Everest, the major motion picture from Universal Pictures, is set for wide release on September 18, 2015. Read The Climb, Anatoli Boukreev (portrayed by Ingvar Sigurðsson in the film) and G. Weston DeWalt s compelling account of those fateful events on Everest.

In May 1996 three expeditions attempted to climb Mount Everest on the Southeast Ridge route pioneered by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. Crowded conditions slowed their progress. Late in the day twenty-three men and women-including expedition leaders Scott Fischer and Rob Hall-were caught in a ferocious blizzard. Disoriented and out of oxygen, climbers struggled to find their way down the mountain as darkness approached. Alone and climbing blind, Anatoli Boukreev brought climbers back from the edge of certain death. This new edition includes a transcript of the Mountain Madness expedition debriefing recorded five days after the tragedy, as well as G. Weston DeWalt's response to Into Thin Air author Jon Krakauer.

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elevations; it is one of the great high-altitude challenges. The difficulties of its routes and the dramatic stories, too many of them tragic, about the attempts to make its summit were well-known by Fischer. In fact, as Boukreev knew, Fischer had been a player in one of the most dramatic of those stories. In August 1992, after having successfully made the summit of K2, Fischer, exhausted and suffering from a shoulder injury, descended the mountain at night in a snowstorm, lowering below him the

Seattle to tell him that Gammelgaard, according to her books, still owed professionally Mountain Madness somewhere around $20,000. "I Kathmandu. I said, 'Either she signs this what our deal is, or she sent Scott the paperwork while he was in . doesn't go. Don't "* signs this.' let . . her out of Kathmandu unless she Confrontation, especially with friends, was not something with which Fischer was comfortable. Bromet said of him, "He didn't want to make people upset and wanted' everybody

altitude? Would my strength and that of Scott, Neal, and the Sh'erpas be enough to handle the situations that might develop? Wisely our clients had left early in the morning for Camp because as the day wore on, the weather began and by nightfall the snow had begun to fall in large flakes. Only Sandy was out in it for any length of time, but because of her previous experience on Everest don't think she was ever in any real danger. I, to deteriorate, - I By daybreak on April 18, more than

move through some situations without us drew at a distance. ents attention of other expedition guides and clients cli- the who, I know, disagreed with the practice. But, on this point, Scott and were much in agreement. looked with concern upon the closely Personally, regimented expeditions where the clients performed as tin soldiers. Given my history as a trainer and coach in cross-country skiing and mountaineering, felt it was important to encourage independent action. I I I was not

spring 1996 he had climbed seven of the most chal- lenging of the globe's 8,000ers (some of them more than once), and all of those he had climbed without the use of supplementary oxygen.* There are fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in the world. Eight of those are within Nepal or extend into its territory. CHAPTER 2 THE EVEREST INVITATION and Anatoli Boukreev had been on some same mountains in their careers, but their climbing routes had never crossed. Through a mutual friend, the highly

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