The Mammoth Book of Mountain Disasters: True Accounts of Rescue from the Brink of Death
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Caught way up on the mountain, no one is safe, from the archetypal nightmare of Tony Kurtz, seen to freeze to death by his stranded rescuers as he hung off the Eiger, to events that unfolded on the Grand Teton, where rescuers narrowly escaped being clubbed to death by their reluctant rescuees. This collection of 35 first-hand accounts will shock and inspire in equal measure. Here is the original draft of Joe Simpson's classic Touching the Void and the first full telling of Jamie Andrew's extraordinary rescue from the Alps, which made headlines in 1999. Plus a specially commissioned account of the epic winter rescue on Mount Ararat, 2000 - the most remote mission ever undertaken by a helicopter-rescue team. And the rescuers own grim battles for survival. Compiled by one of the world's most respected mountaineers, this volume spans five continents - from the Appalachians to Mount Cook, from Peak Lenin to Siula Grande. It includes some of the brightest stars of mountaineering and mountain rescue: Joe Simpson, Doug Scott, Pete Sinclair, Milos Vrbe, Paul Nunn, Ludwig Gramminger, Karen Glazley, Ken Phillips and Blaise Agresti.
I was delighted to find that both man and boy were uninjured, although the adult, not surprisingly, was getting hoarse from shouting. It was obvious that they were extremely relieved to see me. Both walls of the gully were sheer at this point and there was no way that they could have got out themselves. It turned out that they had come down the gully from the summit. Looking up from where I was this seemed a mind-boggling achievement. I then heard that on their descent they had come across a dead
keen hill man was called on a team radio. “Line up the drinks, John. We have the body.” There is a footnote to this last phase of the Surgeon’s Gully affair. The helicopter landed at Corpach, a village near Fort William whose name appropriately translates as The Place of the Dead. As they got out of the Sea King, Willie Anderson jokingly remarked to John MacFadzean that the police would probably manage to identify the body by the next millennium. The Chief Inspector retorted that he would bet him
with the aid of prusic knots and foot loops rappel another name for abseil rimaye the gap between snow ice and a rock face sérac unstable ice pinnacle 24 sling a loop of rope or tape used for belays or in abseiling strop nylon loop used for lifting a casualty in helicopter winching voie normale the most regularly climbed, usually easiest, route on a mountain 25 Rescue on the Droites Blaise Agresti and Jamie Andrew This is a sad tale, a story of two climbers at the height of
Mac?” “I’ll have a go,” I said, trying to muster confidence. “Not many alternatives, are there?” The Austrians had already started and the ring of pegs being driven home echoed from the rock. Walter was fighting his way up a line of grooves which scored the otherwise smooth face of the Pillar. It was climbing of a high order and Walter demonstrated his talent for pegging by inserting each new peg at the absolute limit of his reach, and he was tall. Sometimes 114 it was possible to get finger
seems to indicate that he fell from the steeper rocks above, made highly treacherous with ice. Henderson’s body was carried down to Achallader farm, then to Bridge of Orchy church before he was buried in his home town of Cupar. Though Duncan Smith denied that he obtained any help from the sketch map and the letters, indeed maintained that the information misled him, the fact remains that he did find Henderson at the exact point indicated on the “spiritual” map. Regarding the other “clues”, the